Pick up Policy---My posted prices are if you pick up at my kennel, and this is definitely an option, with an appointment. I do have a completely closed kennel as far as any other pets, cats, other dogs, etc, due to the immature immune systems in puppies, for all puppies safety, but you are all more than welcome to pick up your puppy here and meet the 'parents'. Sometimes even the grandparents.
WHAT IS NEXT--AFTER MY DOWN PAYMENT??? I update photos of your purchased puppy and give you more info on changes, etc. at 2, 4 and 6 weeks of age, or as close to this as is possible according to my schedule. Just a word on the payment policy after the initial down payment. This is my most frequent question I get so I'll address it here. If you would like to pay your balance by check then I must have it in my possession by the time the pup is 6 weeks old or immediately after the down payment if the pup should be over this age when you place the down payment. If you would like the convenience and security of using Paypal then the final payment is due at the time I book your puppies' flight or 3 days before they leave home. In order to use this option you must add 4% to the total price to cover the fee that I am charged. You may add your shipping fee to your final total and after years of doing this I am charging a standard fee of 375 for all pups under 15 lbs (this covers even the standard size babies), and you may include this in your final payment that is due at the six week deadline. The shipping fee covers the actual flight, crate, health certificate and insurance on your pup. This gives time for checks to clear the bank before the puppy actually leaves home.
If you put down a deposit on a puppy that is already six weeks of age or older then full payment is due immediately and by PAYPAL if they will be leaving here in under two weeks.
Poodle Size Chart
I've had a lot of questions on the size of my puppies. Basically I have three and maybe four sizes I breed. The first is the Standard size, which according to the show requirements, is anything above 15 inches and generally up to about 24 inches in the males. (for our purposes we consider the standard to be from 19 to 24 inches) The standard pictured above is 22 1/2 inches and weighs 50 lbs. Another size which is becoming popular is loosely referred to as a Moyen size, you won't find this in the breed book since, very technically, it is a small standard. They generally run about 15 to 18 inches and fill the huge size gap between the minis and the standards that are in the show rings today. The Moyen pictured above is 18 in and 23 lbs. They are technically small standards but nobody is breeding the smaller dogs anymore because they just won't win in the show ring and so this size was becoming extinct. In Europe this size is much more common and has a class of its' own. The third recognized size is the Miniature, which is from 10 to 15 inches and usually about the same in weight. The Miniature pictured above is 13 in and 10 1/2lbs. There is also a Toy size which is considered smaller than 10 inches and is not pictured but you get the idea.. The height of the dogs listed above is at the shoulder, which is how the size is determined. Anyway, the sizes have very similar cut-off points in the Australian Shepherd breed so I didn't feel the need to picture and explain them also. It is hard to predict an exact size that the Aussiedoodle puppies will grow to be because a lot of the Moyen poodles may come from a larger size parent. With careful breeding and culling then hopefully in a a few years we will get our size to breed true, along with all the other characteristics we're breeding for. For now when we predict a size it will be a best guess and will in no way be a guaranteed size. This hybrid has a lot to offer and if I have my way then we will be changing its' status from a HYBRID to a BREED in the very new future. With my extensive knowledge of breeding purebred dogs in the past, and with careful line and inbreeding I see great hope for the future of this breed. This will be made possible by the careful choosing and testing of all foundation stock, which is why I insist on the best of both breeds. I hope this helps all of you in your decision making procress and thank you for looking and learning.
30 lb miniature size
10 lb toy size dog
Guide to Puppy Pricing and Shipping Charges
Now for all of you who are like me, and have not recently won the lottery, and need to budget for a new puppy I'd like to share my pricing ahead of time for you. Puppies are priced by rareness and difficulty of reproducing in my breeding program. A solid black puppy is the easiest to get because this is a dominant color and will trump the parti or merle gene. So, they usually start at 1250. They are by no means inferior dogs, just not as showy or unusual. My merle puppies, which are very hard to get, are 1950 depending on how they are marked and if they have white trim or not. These pups are very hard to get and much sought after. The merles come in blue and red colors. My solid colored puppies with distinctive markings run from 1350 to 1750 depending on the sex and how pleasing the markings are.
NON-REFUNDABLE DEPOSITS If you would like to reserve a puppy I do so when they are between 3 days old and until they are ready to go. I do not charge a PAYPAL use fee on my deposits so I don't have to hold a puppy for 3 or 4 days when I'm told a check is in the mail. This makes your shopping safer as you don't have to worry whether or not your puppy is still actually available. I do not take money to hold pups who aren't born yet. The deposit is 350 and NON-REFUNDABLE. I accept personal checks or any major credit/debit card via Paypal. If you would like to use a credit card there is an additional 4% handling fee for this service. If for any reason I can't deliver the pup you have reserved due to illness or injury you will be notified ASAP and your deposit can be transferred to any other available pup or I will refund. This is the only way a refund is available. If for any reason you can't take the puppy you have reserved then you have 12 months to transfer the deposit to another unreserved puppy from another litter at a later date. No money will be refunded in this case. The balance for the puppy must then be paid two weeks prior to picking up your puppy (if paying by check) or 72 hours before if paying by Paypal. Cash only will be accepted at Point of Sale.
I hope that answers all your questions and just realize that each litter is individually priced as to quality and rareness. All puppies come health guaranteed and registered with APRI, unless I indicate otherwise. Thank you for your time and keep checking back!
Solid colored pup with no or just a touch of white- 1250
Example of solid with exceptional markings 1350 to 1750
(with the exception of a rare smooth faced throwback)
Ok folks, I really have to address something here because I feel it is very important. I do not want to put down ANY other serious Aussiedoodle breeder but I have been getting calls from many potential buyers quoting what they've been told by other breeders that is just NOT TRUE. I have heard that some of these breeders will not breed anything but F1's, or F1's and F1b's but not F2b's (or Multigens) because they might: A: not be stocky like a real Aussie (NOT TRUE) or B:start shedding after they reach a year old (NOT TRUE!!! IF THESE BREEDERS NEVER BREED PAST AN F1 THEN ASK YOURSELF HOW THEY WOULD EVEN KNOW IF A MULTIGEN SHEDS OR NOT!!). I just want to say that I am breeding this cross to develop a TRUE BREED, because after almost 40 years with dogs as my cornerstone in my life I have found a potential for 'my' perfect breed. To the above false remarks all I have to say to these other, probably well intentioned breeders is, that getting the kind of dog you want to breed comes down to: 1. having a good breeding program(or any 'program' for that matter) 2.knowing what you are doing in choosing/keeping your breeding stock 3.testing your breeding stock for hereditary defects and culling or making more informed breeding combinations 4.and re-injecting the poodle every third or fourth generation 'if necessary', as was done with developing the Labradoodle into a 'breed' The original Labradoodle breeders are a very good reference and they are the ones who coined the terms F1, F1b, etc and they have established the blueprint for developing a Doodle as a 'breed'. If your dogs you are getting don't look like Aussiedoodles, and are shedding, then choose your breeding stock more carefully and learn your lines so you know what they are going to throw...as anyone who has shown dogs AKC for many years learns when they breed their first litter. And, if you are not doing this breeding because you love the Aussiedoodle and want to make it the best breed you can then I have to ask you...what is your only goal for breeding these great dogs??? If you don't believe in the Aussiedoodle and their potential then the 'breeds' future doesn't need you! I am also 'not' telling you 'not' to buy from people making these remarks, F1's and F1b's are great also. My only acception with the people making these remarks is that either they, don't know what they are talking about, or, are lying to people to sell dogs and that is the unacceptable part to me. If they actually believe what they are saying then that is the worst part of all...this just proves prejudice and lack of knowledge. Sorry, had to sound off against mis-information. I do not consider myself an expert on this subject, or any subject for that matter, I just know I attend every seminar and read any book on genetics, training, etc. that I can get my hands on and that I have ever since I can remember being able to read or ask questions and learn. I would term myself more a 'student' of dog breeding, rather than an expert, as I learn new things every day and hope to for the rest of my life. I still have friends that are professional dog handlers and AKC show judges and try to keep current and continue to learn all I can about dogs.
Don't believe me about genetic questions, ask your Veterianarian or, don't believe me about the coats then ask a professional dog groomer(assuming they have actually seen or groomed an Aussiedoodle and are not just regurgitating what they have 'heard' about them)... since these professionals don't have any puppies that they are trying to sell you. THANKS to all my past and future buyers, I love you all!!.